Skip to main content

A standard cordless compact DeWalt 18V drill with a high performance motor that delivers 380 watts. Equipped with easy to hold design that allows you to work in difficult spaces.

10 Questions View all

Why won't my battery charge?

My battery will not charge even when it is hooked up to the charger.

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

Is this a good question?

Score 1
2 Comments

Pillerin dirençleri bitmiştir

by

I unfortunately have the discontinued 40 volt setup and have 2 dead batteries. They don’t even have 1 bar. I bought what I was told was a new battery and it would only charge to one bar. I’m going crazy. Any help would be make me most greatful as I have leaf blowers and chain saws I can use anymore.

by

Add a comment

4 Answers

Chosen Solution

If your battery won’t charge, first look to see if the light is flashing on the charger you plug into the wall. If the light is not flashing then there may be a blown fuse in the battery charger which can be replaced. If it is not a blown fuse it may just be a defective battery or an old battery since batteries over a period of time may not be able to hold charge as well as when you first got them. So in that case I recommend buying a new charger if you can not replace the fuse on your drill.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1

4 Comments:

A little confusing (no pun) You suggest buying a new charger if the batteries are defective???

by

Confusing to say the least, all of my dewalt batteries are approx 24 months old and same goes for my chargers. I get one flash of the red light then nothing...none of my batteries should be depleted and the chargers should still be okay too

by

I have this also. Bought new charger, and still same problem

by

Well, I fixed a lot of Dewalt and Milwaukee batteries.

These Lithium Batteries are dangerous, they might cause a fire so inside each battery there is a protective circuit to prevent the battery from causing a fire.

These cells go bad in three different ways. cell(s) get short, they get open, or they fall behind the rest of the cells.

Inside these type of batteries there is a circuit called balancing cells, it monitor each h cell and apply the charge that each cell needs. When it sense one cell is different and can’t be balanced by the circuit it indicate that the battery is defective.

So in your case you have short cell(s) inside the battery and need someone to fix it for you or buy new one.

My advice is to keep it out of the tool and place it on the charger every two weeks to keep the battery functional.

If anyone have question or clarification you can email me at wkassem14@gmail.com

by

Add a comment
Most Helpful Answer

These days, it’s due to tired original NiCd batteries. I have a DC970, and both of my batteries are done. However, I recommend not matching what you have or buying knockoffs: scraping the NiCd setup and replacing the problematic NiCd system is the better play. Sometimes, the old NiCd packs were recovered via a jump, but they never lasted because the packs are toast once it's THAT bad. You can usually wait for a sale on the midrange brushless 20V drill to come up with 2 batteries and end up with the batteries at a lower cost, albeit 1.5Ah or 2Ah, depending on the deal. The original NiCds were 1.2Ah at the base, so 1.5Ah is still an upgrade.

If you need them NOW, try to jump them. Sometimes, they can be saved for one or two final runs, but don't expect them to take that kind of abuse much longer before completely dying out. They don't take abuse like that well after 11+ years; that's in addition to the charger zapping them to drain them quickly, which was done to kill the NiCd memory effect problem. For all intents and purposes, due to the risk of permanent damage on frail batteries, it's better to treat the use of the jumped packs as their final run.

When they go bad and do their last job, I usually recommend that these older DeWalts get the DCA1820 adapter and the 20V batteries; 1.5Ah or 2Ah works as both are upgrades from the stock 1.2Ah DeWalt shipped back then in the non-XR configuration. AND they lose the memory effect problem. However, the rub is this is the dream setup (especially if you can buy a drill with TWO pack-in batteries), and it's more cost-effective then bare batteries alone*. If you want to reduce your guilt about buying a tool for batteries, look for a reconditioned drill from a shop like CPO Outlet; you will probably get batteries with some wear, but it's not as wasteful. The kits with dual batteries always go on sale, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. I'd take it if I didn't own CR tools and 5Ah batteries from battery sales without a second thought.

I have this info because I own a NiCd drill where I lost both batteries to wear and tear once and for all, and the only feasible way to put it in service I saw was to swap to LiOn this way, so I've done the research to make conversion economical.

The advantage of the DCA2203C kit is that the packs are safe for 100% of the tool lineup, even the infamous DC970, which is not able to use the premium batteries. However, these packs are weak compared to others. The MASSIVE DOWNSIDE is that it is never discounted. Because of that, the more economical conversion comes when you buy a mid-tier Brushless drill with two batteries in the package and then source out the DCA1820 separately.

While I still have my NiCd charger in storage, it's a doormat until I can get a deal on a 2-battery drill bundle. DeWalt discontinued the NiCd batteries, likely due to cell availability issues (either way, GOOD RIDDANCE). But that's fine because the downsides of keeping the NiCd packs in service are worse than upgrading to Lion and buying new tools when there's an official fix.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 4

1 Comment:

hi nick, hope you have a great day

by

Add a comment

I know this Answer may be a bit delayed but I had exactly the same issue after using my Dewalt 18v lithium ion battery to run Christmas lights. The battery got totally depleted and when trying to charge it all that would happen is one flash of the charger then absolutely nothing. No indication of life while pressing the indicator button on the battery either. Apparently these batteries can go into sleep mode if totally depleted.

To cure the issue I got a fully charged identical battery and connect wires to the outer + and - slots. I then connected the dead battery to the other end of the wires in the same slots…..make sure + goes to + and - goes to - . I found I only had to do this for a few seconds then Disconnected all wires. On pressing the indicator button on the dead battery I then got a faint flash…..next I place the battery in the charger and it started to charge as normal and after an hr it was fully charged and worked as normal.

Was this answer helpful?

Score 3

1 Comment:

I have had this a few times patience is the answer put flat battery in charger and leave for about an hour until red light comes on without flashing then remove battery and plug back in should charge fully then

by

Add a comment

Found a site that answers the question:

https://thefixitdad.com/index.php/2022/0...

Was this answer helpful?

Score 1

1 Comment:

Thanks David, this was very helpful!

by

Add a comment

Add your answer

Jonathan Hamel will be eternally grateful.
View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 14

Past 7 Days: 94

Past 30 Days: 415

All Time: 43,108